Savoring the Catskills: A Culinary and Comedic Journey Through the Borscht Belt

The Catskills region of New York once served as a vibrant Jewish getaway, where the confluence of Ashkenazi cuisine and unapologetic humor created a unique cultural tapestry. Explore the exhibit "And Such Small Portions! Food and Comedy in the Catskills Resort Era" at the Borscht Belt Museum, which delves into the intertwined narratives of food and comedy that defined this iconic era.

Uncovering the Borscht Belt's Culinary and Comedic Legacy

Kutsher's and the Essence of the Borscht Belt Experience

The Borscht Belt, a term that affectionately refers to the Catskills region, was a haven for Jewish vacationers seeking respite from the city. At the heart of this experience was Kutsher's, one of the most renowned Jewish resorts in the area. Barbara Gelman's recollection of her honeymoon at Kutsher's in 1968 encapsulates the essence of the Borscht Belt: a place where the simple act of ordering dinner became a comedic exchange, with the waitress enumerating the desserts and the husband eagerly accepting them all. This anecdote, preserved in the Borscht Belt Museum's exhibit, serves as a microcosm of the region's rich culinary and comedic traditions.

Ashkenazi Cuisine and the Art of Indulgence

The Catskills were a haven for Ashkenazi cuisine, with menus at resorts like Kutsher's offering a diverse array of Jewish staples and more exotic fare. From boiled flanken and potted brisket to chicken cacciatore and "barbacued [sic] ribs of prime beef, Mandarin," the dining experience was a celebration of abundance. The exhibit's display of menus from the era showcases the sheer variety of options available, catering to the guests' insatiable appetites. This overindulgence was not merely a culinary phenomenon but also a reflection of the cultural psyche, shaped by the collective experiences of the Depression and the Holocaust.

Humor as a Coping Mechanism and Celebration of Identity

Alongside the bountiful cuisine, the Catskills were also renowned for their vibrant comedy scene. Comedians like Jerry Lewis and Joan Rivers honed their craft in the region, often drawing inspiration from the food-centric culture. The exhibit's inclusion of a one-liner from Joan Rivers, "We all mourn in our own way. I mourn with a good steak," exemplifies the interplay between food and humor. This comedic approach served as a coping mechanism, allowing the guests to confront their anxieties and celebrate their cultural identity in a safe and lighthearted environment.

The Tummler and the Art of Keeping Guests Entertained

The Catskills' comedic legacy was further cemented by the figure of the "tummler," a combination emcee and social director whose job was to keep the guests entertained, even on rainy days when they might have otherwise headed back to the Bronx. Comedians like Danny Kaye honed their skills as tummlers, setting the stage for their later success in the entertainment industry. The exhibit's portrait of Kaye serves as a testament to the Catskills' role in nurturing some of the most iconic Jewish comedic talents of the mid-20th century.

The Diversity of the Borscht Belt Experience

The Catskills were not just a culinary and comedic haven; they also represented a diverse gathering place for Jews from across the religious and ideological spectrum. The exhibit's "Choices, Choices" section highlights this diversity, reflecting the range of guests who found solace and community in the Borscht Belt. Whether secular or religious, the cultural and ethnic bond that united these visitors was a defining characteristic of the Catskills experience.

Preserving the Legacy of the Borscht Belt

The Borscht Belt Museum's exhibit, "And Such Small Portions! Food and Comedy in the Catskills Resort Era," serves as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Catskills region. By showcasing the interplay between food and humor, the exhibit invites visitors to immerse themselves in the rich cultural tapestry that once defined this iconic Jewish getaway. Through the display of menus, photographs, and artifacts, the museum celebrates the Borscht Belt's unique ability to provide a sense of comfort, community, and freedom for its guests, all while indulging in the shmaltz and the shtick that have become synonymous with this cherished era.