Elevating the Menswear Landscape: Milan's Sartorial Showcase for Spring 2025
Milan Men's Fashion Week has long been regarded as the epicenter of commercial yet directional menswear, and the recent spring 2025 season was no exception. Retailers and industry experts praised the collections of renowned designers, highlighting key trends that are set to shape the future of men's fashion.
Redefining Elegance: Milan's Menswear Masterpieces for the Discerning Gentleman
Lightweight Tailoring: The Epitome of Effortless Sophistication
The standout trend of the season was undoubtedly the rise of lightweight tailoring, with designers embracing a softer, more fluid approach to suiting. Fabrics such as linen, organza, soft wool blended with cotton or cashmere, and luxurious silks took center stage, creating a lush, breathable aesthetic perfect for the warmer months. "I'm seeing a ton of fisherman sandals and lightweight tailoring for warmer seasons," remarked Jian DeLeon, men's fashion director at Nordstrom. "It's great that men are getting dressed again but finding ways to do it while beating the heat." Raphaël Deray, buying manager for men's luxury and designers at Printemps, echoed this sentiment, noting that "everything seemed pretty light this season, a lot of linen, seersucker, organza, mesh, soft wool." The silhouettes also reflected a softer, more relaxed approach, with pleat-front trousers in a wider fit and longer, more relaxed blazers often paired with spread-collar shirts, creating a fresh, modern take on traditional menswear.
Destination Dressing: Channeling the Allure of the Italian Riviera
Another key trend that captivated the industry was the focus on "destination dressing," with many collections featuring elegant, easy-to-wear looks inspired by the Italian Riviera. "Destination dressing was a big focus, with many collections featuring elegant, easy Italian Riviera-inspired looks," affirmed Bruce Pask, senior editorial director at Neiman Marcus. Young-Su Kim, the divisional merchandise manager for men's at Bergdorf Goodman, echoed this sentiment, stating, "A reference for many of the designers was a seaside escape and an ode to the Riviera." This effortless, vacation-ready aesthetic was embraced by both luxury and contemporary brands, offering men a stylish and comfortable way to transition from the city to the coast.
Technical Outerwear: Blending Function and Fashion
Outdoor-ready garments also made a strong statement on the Milan runways, with designers showcasing a range of trenches, nylon jackets, and vests that combined a sporty-luxe element for the modern, city-dwelling man. "The collections showcased outdoor-ready garments, trenches, nylon jackets and vests that offered a sporty-luxe element for the city-to-town guy," stated Reginald Christian, menswear senior fashion manager at Saks. The classic trenchcoat, in particular, emerged as a standout piece, seen in a variety of fabrics, colors, and lengths, as confirmed by the buying and merchandising director at Rinascente, Giuseppe D'Amato.
Earthy Tones: A Soothing Palette for the Discerning Gentleman
Complementing the soft, relaxed silhouettes and vacation-inspired aesthetics were earthy tones that dominated the color palette for spring 2025. Shades of terra-cotta, sage, and sun-faded hues set the tone, creating a soothing and versatile color story. "We saw a lot of earthy tones (charcoal, terracotta, sage)," said Deray. Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew, noted the prevalence of "effortless tailoring from Giorgio Armani, Dolce, Eleventy and Zegna" in "unlined deconstructed jackets in cashmere, linen yarns and washed silks, done in sun-dried tropical colors of rose, sage and apricot anchored in rich shades of navy, ivory and mocha." Bruce Pask, senior editorial director at Neiman Marcus, further elaborated on the trend, stating, "A soothing, gentle color palette carried throughout most collections, from Brunello Cucinelli to Kiton. These soft shades weren't pastels, but chalkier, sun-faded tones that added versatility and ease in mixing wardrobe pieces. Sage green was especially prevalent and looked very fresh."
